Ski Holidays · Destination Guide
Ski Resort Guide
St Anton, Tignes, Obergurgl and Courchevel
A ski holiday is one of those things that gets under your skin. The early morning when the mountain is quiet and the snow is perfect. The satisfaction of a long red run carved well. The warmth of an alpine hut, a cold beer and a table full of friends. Once you have experienced a truly well-planned ski trip, a week of ordinary sunshine just does not compare.
The four resorts in this guide are ones we know and love. They suit different types of skier and different types of holiday, but they share the things that matter most: reliable snow, excellent skiing across all abilities, beautiful mountain settings and the kind of warm Alpine hospitality that makes you want to come back every year.
St Anton is where modern skiing was born. The Ski Club Arlberg was founded here in 1901, and the resort has been at the heart of Alpine skiing culture ever since. It sits at 1,304 metres in the Austrian Tyrol and forms part of the vast Ski Arlberg region, which connects St Anton with St Christoph, Stuben, Lech and Zürs across 340 kilometres of linked skiing.
The terrain here is serious. St Anton is best known for its challenging off-piste, its legendary powder fields below the Valluga summit at 2,811 metres, and its demanding black runs including the famous Schindlergrat. But there is excellent intermediate terrain on the Galzig and Gampen sectors, and the nursery slopes at Nasserein are well suited to beginners and families.
The village centre, close to the Galzig gondola, is the most convenient and lively base. For families or those wanting a quieter setting, the Nasserein area at the far end of the village is calmer and still well connected. For something more exclusive, St Christoph, higher on the mountain pass, offers ski-in ski-out luxury in a more intimate setting. The train station sits right in the village, making it one of the easiest resorts in the Alps to reach without a car, with direct connections from Innsbruck and Zurich.
St Anton's après ski is legendary for good reason. The MooserWirt and Krazy Kanguruh are two of the most famous mountain bars in the Alps, and the party usually starts before the lifts close. For something more civilised, the village restaurants serve excellent Tyrolean food and the hotels have some superb spa facilities.
St Anton is the cradle of Alpine skiing and feels every bit of it. It has energy, history and some of the finest off-piste terrain in the world.
If you want guaranteed snow, Tignes is your answer. Sitting at high altitude in the Tarentaise Valley, with the Grande Motte glacier topping out at 3,456 metres, it is one of the most snow-sure resorts in the Alps. The season runs from late November to early May, and summer skiing on the glacier is possible from June to August. Linked with neighbouring Val d'Isere to form the enormous Espace Killy ski area, it offers over 300 kilometres of skiing for every ability level.
Tignes is made up of five villages at different altitudes, connected by free shuttle buses. Tignes Le Lac is the most popular base, with excellent ski access, a good selection of restaurants and bars, and a lively but not overwhelming atmosphere. Val Claret sits slightly higher and gives the best access to the Grande Motte glacier. Les Brevieres at the bottom of the valley is the most charming, with traditional wooden buildings and an authentic Savoyard feel. Over 80% of accommodation in Tignes is ski-in ski-out, which makes life wonderfully easy.
Tignes works brilliantly for all levels. Beginners have gentle slopes with free lifts. Intermediates can spend a week exploring the blues and reds across the Toviere and Palet sectors without repeating themselves. Advanced skiers and off-piste enthusiasts will find legendary terrain around the Grande Motte glacier and the Vallon de la Sache. It is also superb for families, with extensive ski school options and the warmth of an Espace Killy lift pass that covers both resorts.
Tignes is the resort for people who refuse to gamble with snow. High altitude, glacier skiing and one of the longest seasons in the Alps.
Obergurgl is the resort that rewards the discerning skier. Now rebranded simply as Gurgl, it sits at the head of the Otztal Valley in Austria, at one of the highest base altitudes of any resort in the Alps. It is one of the first non-glacier ski resorts to open each season, typically in mid-November, and stays open until late April. The snow record is exceptional.
What makes Obergurgl special is the atmosphere. It is quiet, uncommercial and genuinely beautiful. There are no day-trippers, rarely any lift queues, and a clientele of loyal repeat visitors who come back year after year for exactly that reason. The 112 kilometres of perfectly groomed pistes across two linked areas, Obergurgl and the higher Hochgurgl, suit intermediates and families particularly well, though there is excellent off-piste for those who want it. More than 90% of the accommodation is within 250 metres of the slopes, making it as close to ski-in ski-out as a resort can be.
Obergurgl is one of the finest family ski resorts in Austria. The nursery slopes are close to the village, the ski schools have an excellent reputation, and the pace of the resort is calm and unhurried. The après ski at the Nederhütte and the umbrella bar at the Edelweiss and Gurgl hotel is lively enough without being overwhelming. The spa facilities at the village hotels are first class for tired legs at the end of the day.
Obergurgl is what a ski resort should feel like. No queues, perfect snow, beautiful mountains and a warmth that makes you want to stay forever.
Courchevel is the jewel of the Three Valleys, the largest linked ski area in the world with 600 kilometres of pistes connecting Courchevel, Meribel and Val Thorens. It is one of the most famous ski resorts on earth, and it has earned that reputation. The skiing is sensational, the food is extraordinary, and the luxury accommodation is some of the finest in the Alps. North-facing and beautifully snow-sure, the pistes are wide, immaculately groomed and suited to every level from confident beginners to expert skiers.
Courchevel is made up of five distinct villages, each with its own personality. Courchevel 1850 is the most glamorous, with designer boutiques, Michelin-starred restaurants and the most exclusive hotels and chalets in the resort. Courchevel Moriond (formerly 1650) is livelier and more affordable, with a brilliant young atmosphere and great access to the ski area. La Tania, nestled in the forest, is perfect for families, quiet and charming with easy access into both the Courchevel and Meribel valleys. Le Praz at the bottom of the valley has an authentic Savoyard village feel and is significantly more affordable than 1850.
The real joy of Courchevel is using it as a base to explore the full Three Valleys. A day skiing through to Val Thorens, the highest resort in the Alps, and back via Meribel is one of the great Alpine experiences. The lift system is modern and fast, and you can cover extraordinary distances on skis in a single day.
Courchevel is where skiing meets luxury at the highest level. The Three Valleys is a lifetime's skiing in a single resort.
The honest answer is that all four resorts are exceptional, and the right one for you depends on what you are looking for. Here is a simple guide:
Whatever you choose, I can take care of every detail, from flights and transfers to finding the right chalet, hotel or apartment and making sure everything runs smoothly from the moment you leave home to the moment you get back.
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