Greek Islands · Destination Guide
Kefalonia
Greece
Kefalonia has a quality that is hard to define but immediately obvious when you arrive. It feels genuinely unspoilt in a way that is increasingly rare in the Mediterranean. The landscapes are dramatic and varied, the people are warm and proud of their island, and the beaches are genuinely among the finest in Europe. Captain Corelli's Mandolin put Kefalonia on the map for a generation of British travellers, and the reality is every bit as beautiful as the story suggested.
Give yourself at least five days. The island rewards those who take time to explore.
Fiskardo on the northern tip is the most picturesque base on the island, a perfectly preserved Venetian harbour village that escaped the devastating 1953 earthquake. It attracts yachts from across the Mediterranean and has excellent restaurants overlooking the water. Argostoli, the capital, is the best base if you want local life, easy access to transport and beaches within a short drive. Skala in the south is ideal for families, with a long sandy beach and good amenities. Assos, a tiny pastel-coloured village on a promontory in the north, is one of the most beautiful spots on the island.
Myrtos Beach is the one everyone comes to see, and it does not disappoint. Blindingly white pebbles, towering limestone cliffs and water in shades of turquoise that do not look entirely real. The viewpoint from above is as spectacular as the beach itself. Antisamos, made famous by the Captain Corelli film, is another beautiful pebbly beach set against lush green hills.
The Melissani Cave near Sami is one of Kefalonia's most memorable experiences. An underground lake where sunlight streams through a hole in the roof and turns the water an otherworldly shade of blue-green. Small boats take you through the cave and it is genuinely magical. Nearby, Drogarati Cave is a vast cavern of stalactites and stalagmites with such good acoustics that concerts are occasionally held inside it.
Myrtos Beach is one of those places you see in photographs and assume must be exaggerated. It is not. The reality is even better.
Kefalonia produces excellent wine. The local Robola grape makes a crisp, dry white that goes perfectly with fresh seafood. Visit the Robola Winery in the mountains for a tasting and to understand why this wine has been made on the island for centuries.
May, June and September offer the best combination of warm weather, swimmable seas and manageable crowds. July and August are busy and very hot. The shoulder seasons are perfect for those who want the island at its most beautiful without competing for sunbeds.
Direct flights operate from several UK airports to Kefalonia Airport throughout the summer season. Flight time is around three and a half hours. A hire car is essential if you want to explore the island properly, and the drives along the coast road are spectacular enough to be highlights in themselves.
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