European Cities · Destination Guide
Bologna
Italy
Bologna is Italy's best kept secret. While millions of tourists pour into Florence and Rome, this extraordinary city in the heart of Emilia-Romagna gets on with being magnificent in relative peace. It has more kilometres of porticoed walkways than any city on earth, a university that has been in continuous operation since 1088, and a culinary reputation that makes the rest of Italy look up with respect. This is where tagliatelle al ragu was invented. This is where the best mortadella, Parmesan and balsamic vinegar come from. Bologna is called La Grassa by Italians, meaning the fat one, and it is entirely deserved and completely wonderful.
Bologna is compact and almost everything is walkable from the centre. Staying in or near the Piazza Maggiore, the magnificent main square at the heart of the old city, puts you within easy reach of everything. For something with more character, the neighbourhood of Quadrilatero and the area around the Two Towers are beautifully atmospheric, full of medieval streets and excellent restaurants.
Start at Piazza Maggiore and the adjacent Piazza del Nettuno. The scale of the medieval buildings and the extraordinary Basilica di San Petronio gives you an immediate sense of how wealthy and powerful Bologna once was. Climb the Asinelli Tower, one of the two medieval towers that are the symbol of the city, for views over the terracotta rooftops.
Then eat. The Quadrilatero market district, with its narrow streets and food stalls selling mortadella, cheeses and fresh pasta, is one of the great food markets in Italy. Take a cooking class to learn how to make tagliatelle by hand. Visit a traditional osteria for a long lunch with a carafe of Sangiovese.
Bologna is the perfect antidote to overtourism. This is Italy as it actually is, proud, delicious, and completely itself.
A day trip to Modena, just thirty minutes by train, is highly recommended. The Ferrari Museum at nearby Maranello is a pilgrimage for car enthusiasts, and Modena itself has one of the finest food markets and cathedrals in the region.
April, May, September and October are ideal. Bologna can be very hot in July and August, though it is never as overwhelmingly crowded as the major tourist cities. Christmas and the winter months have a wonderful atmosphere, with the covered porticoes making walking the city comfortable whatever the weather.
Direct flights from several UK airports serve Bologna Guglielmo Marconi Airport, with journey times of around two hours. Bologna is also superbly connected by high-speed rail to Florence, Venice, Milan and Rome.
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